How is ethnic identity visualized? I will explore this process
through the case of the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park (Taman
Budaya Tionghoa Indonesia), an ongoing museum-building project undertaken
by the Chinese Indonesian social organization Paguyuban Sosial Marga
Tionghoa Indonesia (PSMTI). The aim of the park is to exhibit the
culture and history of Chinese Indonesians within Taman Mini Beautiful
Indonesia, the national cultural park on the outskirts of Jakarta.
To understand the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park, I will be using
James Clifford’s concept of “the museums as ‘contact zones.’” In
Routes: Travels and Transitions in the Late 20th Century,
Clifford examines four museums which contain exhibitions of North
American Indians of the American northwest. Clifford points out
that the museums were originally sites of mass control, wherein
the dominant group collected, organized, and displayed the culture
of the minority. Recently however, they have become venues for minority
groups’ identity formation and now function as “contact zones” between
the two.1 In multi-ethnic Indonesia, the visualization
of ethnicity takes various forms, from ornaments in shopping malls
and statues on the streets, to distributed election campaign paraphernalia.
These visualizations contain possible messages for specific purposes
such as business or politics. In case of the Chinese Indonesian
Cultural Park, the message is conveyed from Chinese Indonesians
to the nation. Viewing the Cultural Park as a opportunity for identity
formation on the part of Chinese Indonesians, I will first discuss
the plan for the museum, including construction plans, the planner,
the location, the current state of development, and the problems.
Then I will illustrate the process of how ethnicity is symbolized
in the museum and how the museum may function as a contact zone
for the nation and the various ethnic groups.
In this paper, terms such as Tionghoa (the Hokkien pronunciation
of “Zhonghua”) is translated as “Chinese Indonesian.”2
In addition, terms referring to ethnicity, such as the Indonesian
“suku,” “suku bangsa,” and “esnis,” are translated as “ethnicity.”3
The Fall
May 1998 is remembered as a moment of both liberation and fear
by Chinese Indonesians. When the 32-year Suharto regime fell as
the result of nationwide riots, Chinese Indonesians were eventually
liberated from the various legal restrictions cast on them by Suharto.
At the same time, becoming the target of violence in the riots evoked
fear among Chinese Indonesians simply for being Chinese Indonesians
.
On May 12, 1998, at a protest meeting at Trisakti University in
western Jakarta that featured criticism of the Suharto administration
for the economic crisis that began in 1997, someone fired gunshots,
resulting in the death of 4 students. This incident triggered large-scale
rioting. Starting from Jakarta, the rioting spread to areas including
Medan, Solo, and Palembang and resulted in the deaths of more than
1100 people.4 What started as a protest against
the Suharto administration turned into an anti-Chinese Indonesian
movement because of stereotypical speculations that Chinese Indonesians
were economically benefitting under the Suharto administration.
In the center of Jakarta’s commercial area known as Glodok, there
were numerous incidences of arson and assault against Chinese Indonesian
women.
Suharto resigned on May 21, 1998. Ever since, Indonesia has experienced
a dizzying change in political power, from Habibie, Abdul Rahman
Wahid, and Megawati up to the present Yudhoyono administration.
With the change in political power, the revision of legal restrictions
on Chinese Indonesians also proceeded at a rapid pace. The history
of the legal changes is described in detail in Suryadinata (2003)
and Lindsey (2005). These authors point to the elimination of restrictions
on culture, religion and language that occurred between October
1999 and July 2001, during the administration of former president
Abdul Rahman Wahid.5 Moreover, the “12th Law of
2006: New Nationality Act,” approved on August 1, 2006, is hailed
as an landmark revision in Indonesian jurisprudence concerning Chinese
Indonesians.6
Legal decisions to assure the socio-cultural and political equality
of Chinese Indonesians have been promoted continuously, and an environment
now exists in Indonesia in which Chinese Indonesians can freely
express their ethnic identity. Initially, the legal revision and
liberalization of expression were meant to contribute to each individual’s
freedom of expression to express an ethnic identity; it is not always
the case that such a right is exercised by a group. However, Chinese
Indonesians have demanded recognition as one of Indonesia’s ethnic
groups. Why? The anti-Chinese Indonesian movement of May 1998 was
caused by negative stereotyping of Chinese Indonesians on the part
of non-Chinese Indonesians. If I may oversimplify, “Chinese Indonesians”
were seen as an exclusive group that controlled the state of the
economy and that bore no relation to “native Indonesians.” In this
stereotypical image, there was no space for individual Chinese Indonesian
identity.
After the riots of May 1998 made it clear that Chinese Indonesians
were seen as a monolithic group, it seems natural for Chinese Indonesians
to conceive the idea of forming a positive image of a Chinese Indonesian
ethnic group to counter the stereotype and avoid another tragedy.
They then faced the problem of justifying and defending the existence
of “Chinese Indonesian” as an ethnic group in the same vein as “native
Indonesian” groups like the Javanese and the Sundanese. Realizing
this situation, the formalization of religion, language, and cultural
events has been pursued and Chinese Indonesian ethnicity is in the
process of being visualized.
The Planner
It is not clear when the idea of the Chinese Indonesian Cultural
Park was conceived and by whom. However, it is now the project of
the PSMTI, whose headquarters is in Jakarta. There are many Chinese
Indonesian organizations in Indonesia. In Jakarta alone, there are
over a hundred. Among these groups, what features does the PSMTI
possess and what part does it play?
Chinese Indonesian organizations or associations can roughly be
categorized as: 1) place of origin associations, such as Fujian
and Yongchung; 2) surname associations, such as Rin or Yu; 3) organizations
of religious affiliation, such as Confucianism or Buddhism; 4) alumni
associations of Chinese language schools, before they were closed
in 1967;7 and 5) social organizations. Bringing
together these organizations from all over Indonesia into representative
umbrella groups are the Jakarta-based PSMTI and the Perhimpunan
Indonesia Tionghoa (INTI).8
The PSMTI and the INTI were originally one organization, established
after May 1998, when it was discovered that there was no nationwide
social organization for the protection of Chinese Indonesians. On
28 September 1998, PSMTI was established to facilitate mutual aid
among Chinese Indonesians. The founding representative of the organization
was a former military personnel, Tedy Yusuf. In 1999, when PSMTI
was under the leadership of Eddy Lembong, president of the pharmaceutical
company Pharos INTI was established as a separate entity. According
to PSMTI and INTI members, the biggest reason for the organizational
break-up was leadership inexperience on the part of the Chinese
Indonesians, who seemed unable to consolidate opinions. This was
probably due to the fact that Chinese Indonesians were not allowed
to organize during the Suharto administration.
Table 1: PSMTI membership distribution by age and
sex, September 2006
Year
of Birth |
Sex |
Male |
Female |
Total |
1920s |
5 |
1 |
6 |
1930s |
35
|
10
|
45 |
1940s
|
126
|
38
|
164 |
1950s
|
122
|
43
|
165 |
1960s
|
78
|
22
|
100 |
1970s
|
46
|
20
|
66 |
1980s
|
13
|
4
|
17 |
Total
|
425
|
138
|
563 |
Source: created by the author from data provided
by PSMTI
Table 2: PSMTI membership distribution by region,
September 2006
Region |
Province |
Number of members |
Sumatra
|
Riau
|
79 |
North
Sumatra
|
66 |
Riau
Islands
|
41 |
Nanggroe
Aceh Darussalam
|
29 |
Lampung
|
5 |
Jambi
|
3 |
South
Sumatra
|
2 |
Bengkulu
|
1 |
Java |
Jakarta
|
168 |
Central
Java |
45 |
Banten |
33 |
East Java |
16 |
West Java |
15 |
Nusa Tenggara |
West Nusa Tenggara |
33 |
Kalimantan |
West Kalimantan |
2 |
|
South Kalimantan |
1 |
Sulawesi
|
South Sulawesi |
24 |
| |
Total
|
563 |
Source: created by the author from data provided
by PSMTI
What kind of members comprise the PSMTI? Although PSMTI primarily
set up as an umbrella body for the various Chinese Indonesian
organization, it also offers individual membership. Presently,
PSMTI has about 560 members. Although supporters are probably
much larger in number than registered members, I will draw the
characteristics of PSMTI by looking at the features of the full-fledged
members. In terms of age and sex, Table 1 clearly illustrates
that most members are males born in the 1940s and 1950s. Accordingly,
the possibility is high that they received education from the
Chinese language schools before they were closed. Table
2 illustrates that more than 40 percent of members reside
in Jakarta and other provinces in Java, and more than 90 percent
of members designate business as their occupation. This data
shows that while PSMTI keeps expanding as an umbrella organization
for Chinese Indonesian groups throughout the nation, the members
who have direct influence on the Chinese Indonesian Cultural
Park are probably male graduates of Chinese language schools
who reside in Java.
The Location
Taman Mini was an important part of Suharto’s cultural
policy. According to Pemberton (1994), in order to deny the memory
of the massacres and political purges that characterized the genesis
of Suharto’s rule in the September 30 incident,9
in the early 1970s the presidential couple started to pour effort
into the politicization of “culture” and the creation of “tradition”
as represented in Taman Mini. Pemberton discusses the 1983 “traditional”
Javanese wedding of Suharto’s second daughter Siti Hediati inside
the Hall at Taman Mini and the reconstruction of the Surakarta royal
palace as two bases for Suharto’s location of “tradition” in the
colonial period because of its time distance from the 1960s.
Kato (1993) describes the importance of Taman Mini and the Education
and Culture Ministry’s “catalogue production and documentation”
project of the 27 Indonesian states as a method of packaging local
culture and ethnicity under the control of the central government.
Kato points out that both projects organize the diversity of multi-ethnic
Indonesia not by ethnic group but by administrative unit as part
of a process of national integration. As a result, Chinese Indonesians,
who were not physically concentrated in any one administrative unit,
were left out and became an “invisible” ethnicity. These authors
see an attempt by the Suharto administration to negate unpleasant
memories of the recent past and see Taman Mini as a system set up
by the central government to package the “tradition” of the country’s
different ethnic groups to serve as the nation’s new collective
memory.
The idea for Taman Mini was announced in August 1971, as a project
of the Our Hope (Harapan Kita) Foundation, headed by Tien Soeharto,
the president’s wife. The particulars of the idea cannot be fully
ascertained, but according to Tien Soeharto herself, Disneyland
served as a model.10 One hundred hectares were
secured about 5 kilometers away from the international airport,
Harim Airport, in Pondok Gede for the park. In the process of obtaining
the site, protest actions by students and residents were suppressed
by the administration (Anderson 1973). Suharto’s strong attitude
in this process suggests that Taman Mini was not planned as a recreational
institute like Disneyland.
The aims and objectives of Taman Mini, published in 1975, clearly
spell out its role in visualizing and expressing the Indonesian
nation and its people. There are six detailed targets: 1) building
and strengthening love for the motherland; 2) enriching and renewing
the sense of national union and unity; 3) appreciating and enhancing
the Indonesian culture inherited from the ancestors; 4) introducing
the country’s cultural, natural, and other wealth to the people
of Indonesia; 5) utilizing the tourism industry; and 6) helping
to activate the government’s 5 year plan (Taman Mini “Indonesia
Indah” 1978:46-47).
Taman Mini was organized in the following manner. At the center
of the park is a man-made lake on which floats the entire Indonesian
archipelago, from Papua to Sumatra. Surrounding the lake are 27
states of the Indonesian archipelago and their respective pavilions
in the style of the representative “traditional” ethnic house. Inside
each pavilion are displays of wedding clothes, musical instruments,
and crafts. On weekends, “ethnic” dance or music is occasionally
performed inside the pavilions. Beyond the provincial pavilions
lie museums, mosques, churches, an orchidarium, and an aviary.
In 1975 Taman Mini opened with the 27 provincial pavilions,11
the religious institutions, the Indonesian archipelago in miniature,
a Pancasila monument, and the orchidarium. The fact that no major
museums were built until the 1980s may be why the pavilions emerged
as the park’s nucleus (Taman Mini “Indonesia Indah” 2006b). Aside
from the Indonesia Museum and the Stamp Museum, most museums built
in the 1980s were devoted to science, resources, and energy. This
reflected the emphasis given to development by the Suharto administration.
Museums that represent ethnicity, like the Chinese Indonesian Cultural
Museum, still cannot be seen in Suharto’s Taman Mini.
Aside from packaging ethnicity and unitizing administrative areas,
Taman Mini as a representation of culture and tradition and Suharto’s
power over the sphere of culture reinforced each other. Through
the different official functions held there, of which the wedding
was representative, Taman Mini was given national authority. At
the same time, holding these functions in Taman Mini solidified
Suharto’s place in “public” Indonesian culture by backing up his
ideas of traditional culture.
Suharto’s power and the concepts of packaged ethnicity and culture
were disseminated to a large audience through schools and television
broadcasts, in addition to the significant number of visitors to
the park itself. Figure 1 shows the number of visitors throughout
Taman Mini’s 30 years, which totaled approximately 14 million. Visitor
numbers rose dramatically during the 1980’s, and in 1997 alone,
before Suharto’s fall, more than 7.2 million people visited. Even
after 1998, more than 4 million visitors were recorded each year.
Taman Mini’s influence shows no sign of weakening.

Figure 1: Number of visitors to Taman Mini, 1975-2005
Source: Drawn by author from data provided by Taman
Mini Public Information Office
The significance of Taman Mini in Indonesia’s national cultural
policy and its impact on the public makes it clear that its selection
as the venue for the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park was meant
to enhance the recognition of Chinese Indonesian ethnicity by the
state and its acceptance by the Indonesian people. As Clifford points
out, “the tribal or minority museum and artist, while locally based,
may also aspire to wide recognition, to a certain national or global
participation” (Clifford 1997:122). PSMTI believes that creating
a museum within Taman Mini ensures a place for Chinese Indonesian
ethnicity in the Indonesian nation.12

Photo 1. Tedy Yusuf, left; Suharto, center
(May 2005 PSMTI Bulletin)
It seems that the PSMTI’s concept of the state is
represented by the Suharto regime, not the present administration,
even though the plan for a Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park only
came into action when the remarkable restrictions on cultural activity
by Chinese Indonesians were lifted with the collapse of the Suharto
administration. The plan also indicates the waning of systematic
state control of ethnicities based on administrative unit. Yet,
supporters of the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park offer no alternative
to Suharto’s method of packaging ethnicity by wedding clothes, dances,
and the authority of Taman Mini. The Chinese Indonesian Cultural
Park can thus be seen as a belated assimilation into the Suharto
regime’s ethnicity policy.
The Plan
The first article on the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park appeared
in PSMTI’s July 4, 2001, newsletter. This article proposed that
Candra Naya, the historical building of Chinese Indonesians located
in the west of Jakarta, be dismantled and rebuilt inside Taman Mini.
At this point, the museum was simply referred to as the “Tionghoa
Museum.” The article indicates the organizational centrality of
PSMTI in planning the museum as of 2001 and the historical importance
of Candra Naya (discussed below). In July 2003, an appeal was made
to special state governor Sutiyoso for the dismantling and reconstruction
of Candra Naya inside Taman Mini. The appeal, by the owner of Grup
Modern, a Chinese Indonesian enterprise, was rejected. As a result,
a replica of Candra Naya will be built inside Taman Mini.13
PSMTI presented an original plan for the Chinese Indonesian Museum
to the “Our Hope” Foundation in November 2002. At first, the plan
was named “Museum Budaya Tionghoa Indonesia.” Though the name was
later changed, the plans continued (to the present) to refer to
a “museum.” On January 6, 2003, Suharto, the current president of
the foundation after the death of his wife, permitted PSMTI to use
two hectares inside Taman Mini for the museum.
The plan was first mentioned in Taman Mini’s annual report in the
29th issue for the year 2004. In two facing pages, the museum is
introduced with the words of Ali Sadikin, governor of Jakarta during
the inauguration of Taman Mini and a former military personnel during
the Sukarno administration: “I fully agree with the plan to build
a Chinese Indonesian Cultural Museum, as the Chinese Indonesian
is part of the Indonesian nation.”14 The initial
plans for the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park are then followed
by a picture of a lion dance inside Taman Mini. The format used
for the pavilions of the administrative units is applied here, including
the combination of photos of architecture and ethnic dances.
According to Taman Mini’s Public Relations Office, the Chinese Indonesian
Cultural Park was originally planned by Taman Mini itself, as part
of a plan to build separate museums for the different major immigrant
groups to Indonesia. Museums devoted to Arabs, Indians, and Chinese,
for example, are meant to be sponsored by ethnic organizations like
PSMTI.15 Up to now, there is no concrete proposal
for a museums about Arab or Indians; only the PSMTI and Taman Mini
share this common interest. Although the extent of Taman Mini’s
initiative in this regard is not clear, the Chinese Indonesian Cultural
Park can be seen as a significant change in Indonesia’s official
interpretation of ethnicity.
Blueprints for the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park were drawn by
Parahyangan University in Bandong.16 In the original plan associated
with this blueprint, assemblage of the collection would start in
April 2003, followed by a soft opening in April 2004, with completion
expected in January 2005. However, because of changes in design
and difficulty in fund raising, as of August 2006 the plan had only
proceeded to the importation and installation of the gate’s guardian
lions from China. In December 2005, full-scale modification designs
by the Chinese private company Xiamen City Planning Group replaced
the original plans, and by mid-2006, according to the Chinese-language
television news “Metro News,” only 18% of the needed funds had been
collected.17
A number of things might explain the difficulty in obtaining funds.
The most significant would be that publicity was limited to the
Chinese-language media, the PSMTI Bulletin, and Jakarta-based newspapers
until the middle of 2006, when a large-scale fund-raising appeal
was finally made to the general public via the national newspapers.18
Another is the opinion expressed by some supporters of a Chinese
Indonesian museum that the final adopted design is too “Chinese”
– that it hardly symbolizes Chinese Indonesian culture.19
But although there is opposition to the current design of the Chinese
Indonesian Cultural Park, there are no alternative suggestions.
This shows that no discourse has been established to express Chinese
Indonesian ethnicity. Despite a feeling of uneasiness about the
PSMTI’s plan, there is no agreement on how to express “Chineseness”
or “Chinese Indonesian-ness” which is not “Chinese.” Techniques
for the expression of “Chinese Indonesian-ness” are still in the
experimental stage.
The Image
What is the PSMTI’s image that is to symbolize Chinese Indonesians?
Here I will examine the museum’s ideology as published by PSMTI
and as indicated by the current design of the buildings.
PSMTI’s proposal consists of: 1) a letter calling for contributions;
2) the proposal sent to the “Our Hope” Foundation; 3) a summary
of the purpose of Taman Mini according to Tien Soeharto; 4) the
background of the project; 5) the purpose of the project; 6) the
keystone of the project; 7) a map of Taman Mini; 8) the construction
schedule; 9) a cost estimate of the project; 10) the museum’s organizational
chart; 11) the museum committee’s name; 12) a conclusion; and 13)
a donation form. Of these items, background, purpose, and keystone
show the ideology of the museum.
By way of background, PSMTI explains that Indonesia was originally
composed of ethnicities from different parts of the world, with
differing religions and cultural backgrounds. Chinese Indonesians
are an ethnic group which migrated to Indonesia 500 years ago. What
is emphasized is the diversity of multi-ethnic Indonesia and Chinese
Indonesians as one of the ethnicities.
The purpose of the museum will be to exhibit where from and how
Chinese Indonesians originally migrated, how they lived, and how
they interacted with their surroundings. A sentence without a grammatical
subject follows, to the effect that the experience of fighting in
the independence war, the hardships gone through in the old days,
ideals, and thoughts will be also exhibited. The museum is stipulated
not to be a Chinese museum or a religious institution. The intent
of the museum is to unite the different ethnic groups, including
the Chinese Indonesians, in order to establish social justice and
prosperity.
The image outlined above clearly attempts to avoid expressions which
would evoke the image of “China,” probably as a result of memories
of discrimination under the Suharto administration and of the violence
of 1998. However, in the construction plans, Chinese expressions
have been adopted in a very clear manner. The overall image of the
new Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park can be seen in photo 2. The
main structures include: 1) a 7-story octagonal pagoda; 2) a replica
of Candra Naya; 3) a replica of the Forbidden City; 4) a gate made
from materials imported from China; 5) a Chinese junk; and 6) an
imitation of the Chinatown markets found throughout Indonesia. (The
original plans drawn by Parayangan University featured residential
architecture instead of the replica of the Forbidden City, the design
of the gate and pagoda were vastly different, and the position of
the buildings was different.)

Photo 2. Map of the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park
If the Candra Naya and Chinatown replicas originate in Indonesia,
other buildings symbolize “China.” The replica of the Forbidden
City very obviously evokes Beijing, the political center of China.
But the connection is also evident in the gate (photo 3), which
seems to be modeled after the gates of the Western Qing Tomb and
the Eastern Qing Tomb (photo 4). According to a PSMTI representative
at the office of Indonesian Cultural Park, the gate was commissioned
to reflect the five pillars of the Indonesian national policy of
Pancasila.20 As we can see by comparing the photos,
however, it may be rather difficult to imagine Pancasila in the
absence of this explanation.

Photo 3: Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park’s gate (PSMTI-produced
calendar 2006)

Photo 4: Eastern Qing Tomb gate
(http://www.epochtimes.com,accessed 10 September
2006)
Interestingly, although the origin of most Chinese Indonesians
can be traced to the southern parts of China (such as Fujian and
Canton) and the design was drawn by a firm in Fujian, the museum
has no representation of southern China. Instead, an extremely simplified
composition equates Chinese Indonesian with China and China with
Beijing. Moreover, the replica of the Forbidden City, intended to
be used as the exhibition hall, lies at the heart of the museum.
There are three possible reasons for this. The first is political:
It may be seen as an attempt to situate the political power of Beijing
within the context of Chinese Indonesian history. The second is
a matter of publicity: The Forbidden City may have been chosen as
a representation of Chineseness because it is well-known among Indonesians
in general.21 The third reason relates to the
representation of ethnicity in China itself, where a representation
of Fujian or Cantonese ethnicity is not necessarily perceived as
Chinese ethnicity. In other words, to express Chinese identity in
China, one has to adopt Chineseness as represented by Han ethnicity.
The same logic would then apply to Chinese Indonesians, who must
adopt Han Chineseness to express themselves as one ethnic group.
At any rate, the building which visualizes the history and culture
of 500 years Chinese Indonesians, the only building that tells the
story of the history of Chinese Indonesians, is not placed as the
center of the museum. This building is Candra Naya.
Candra Naya
Candra Naya, located in West Jakarta’s Gaja Mada street, is one
of the few extant buildings in Indonesia that show Chinese-style
architecture during the Dutch colonial period. Constructed in the
late 19th century, it was one of three residences built by the sons
of Khouw Tian Sek, a Chinese officer. It later became the residence
of Khouw Kim Au, the last executive officer of the Chinese district
during the Dutch colonial period. In Candra Naya, one can see a
blend of Dutch colonial Batavian architecture and southern Chinese
styles.
Lohanda (1994) has described the development of the Chinese executive
officer system and the role it played in colonial Indonesia. According
to Lohanda, Khouw Kim Au, who was educated in the Dutch language,
was twice appointed “Majoor,” the highest level a Chinese officer
could attain, first from 1910 to 1918 and again from 1927 to 1942.
He was also a leader of the Chinese Indonesians. After Khouw Kim
An died in a Japanese concentration camp in 1945, Candra Naya was
used by the Sing Ming Hui community group. The name “Candra Naya”
has its roots in the Candra Naya school operated by Sing Ming Hui
in the 1950s.
Candra Naya’s history spans a century of Chinese Indonesian political
and social activity. In 1992, it came under the control of the Chinese
Indonesian company Grup Modern, which wanted to dismantle it for
rebuilding inside Taman Mini. Between 2000 and 2003, this historical
structure became the object of discussion even beyond the Chinese
Indonesian community. Articles published in the major national newspapers
Jakarta Post and Kompas brought it to the attention of a wide range
of readers, although with differing emphasis. In a series of articles,
Kompas focused on the relationship between the PSMTI and the government,
reporting, for example, the opposition of Jakarta governor Sutiyoso
to PSMTI’s plan for Candra Naya, and the dissenting opinion of provincial
government committee member Andi Tambunan.22

Picture 5: Half-finished Candra Naya replica
(photo by author, 14 March 2006)
The Jakarta Post, on the other hand, pointed out that the cultural
significance of Candra Naya transcends Chinese Indonesian history.23
The newspaper reported that Candra Naya was the site of the first
Indonesian Badminton Association Congress in 1957 and quoted the
opinions of intellectuals such as Irma Hatsumi of Indonesia University:
“the building became the headquarters for the Indonesian Student
Action Front (KAMI) during the upheaval following the aborted coup
in 1965, blamed by most Indonesians on the Indonesian Communist
Party (PKI), and became the site for raising money for financing
the city’s development during the governorship of Ali Sadikin (1966-1977).”24
These opinions had the effect of appealing to non-Chinese Indonesian
readers.
The article cited above also quotes heritage observer David Kwa
on Candra Naya’s architectural style: “It has many non-Chinese touches
not found in pure Chinese architecture… [including] the window shutters
and window bars, marble floor, glass skylight, ironwork ornamentation,
which are obviously Indisch-style architecture.” Kwa stresses that
Candra Naya reflects a melting pot Batavian society.
Taking into consideration these arguments about the dismantling
and reconstruction of Candra Naya, Kusno (2001) points out the significance
of Candra Naya as a symbol of Chinese Indonesian society after the
May 1998 riots. According to Kusno, Candra Naya is only 100 meters
away from the area in Glodok most severely damaged by arson. It
is a building that secures the presence of Chinese Indonesians in
the area because of the Chinese characteristics of the building.
In addition, because it is a reminder of the political character
of Chinese Indonesians, which was once snatched away by the Suharto
administration and returned to them after May 1998, Candra Naya
symbolically connects the past with the future of Chinese Indonesians
in Indonesian society.
Kusno’s argument makes it clear why PSMTI decided to place an replica
of Candra Naya in the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park when the
plan for transferring it was unsuccessful. It is the importance
of Candra Naya as a symbol beyond the architectural design that
PSMTI wanted in the park.
Museum Exhibitions and Activities
Lastly, I will discuss in a simple manner the contents of the exhibits
at the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park and its proposed activities.
The design for the buildings at the park will function as a symbol
of Chinese Indonesian ethnicity. The prime purpose of the museum
will be the visualization, valuation, and preservation of the culture.
As stated earlier, the original plan and the present plan for the
park are different, but since the primary functions of the museum
remain the same, my summary will be based on the original proposal.
Three buildings will comprise the main parts of the park: the main
hall for the museum’s exhibition; the replica of the Chinatown which
will include restaurants and souvenir shops; and a stage for performances
such as lion dances. In the main hall, the following are scheduled
to be included: 1) the history of Chinese Indonesians in Indonesia;
2) artworks by Chinese Indonesian artists from different parts of
Indonesia; 3) materials relating to heroes, public officials, and
sports superstars during the country’s hard times; and 5) a library.
Although the details of the exhibits must wait, the major concern
will be how the collective culture, history, and future of Chinese
Indonesians will be adapted to the history and society of Indonesia.
Conclusion
At this stage, there is no consolidated point of view within the
Chinese Indonesian community as to how its culture should be symbolized.
This is because Chinese Indonesians are still in the process of
searching for their ethnic identity. It can be said in fact that
after overcoming 35 years of restricted expression, Chinese Indonesians
have been confronted with the need to create their own ethnicity.
They are now searching for its basis in China, Indonesia, the Dutch
colonial period, and the years before the Suharto administration.
The case of the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park implies that the
creation of ethnicity is born out of an external necessity to form
a coherent story with a historical basis. Thus the paradox that
the plan will use the same framework as Taman Mini, the national
identity project of the administration that restricted the expression
and activities of Chinese Indonesians for so long.
What direction will the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park take from
here? And how will Chinese Indonesian ethnic identity continue to
be reshaped? These questions need further research. In addition,
comparative research with other case studies may clarify whether
the terms used abundantly in this paper – “Chineseness” and “Chinese
Indonesian-ness” – can be defined respectably and if so, how they
should be explained.
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Yumi Kitamura
is an assistant professor at the Center for Southeast Asian Studies,
Kyoto University, and a Ph.D. candidate at Hitotsubashi University.
This essay first appeared in Japanese in Gensha Vol.1
(2007) and was revised for KRSEA. It was translated by the author
with assistance from Nicolle Comofay.
Kyoto Review of Southeast Asia Issue 8 (March 2007)
©Center for Southeast Asian Studies, Kyoto University
Notes:
1
Clifford (1997:192) borrowed the concept “contact zones” from
Mary Louise Pratt’s Eyes of Empire: Travel and Transculturation
(Pratt 1992:6-7).
2
The word “Cina” is considered a derogatory term among Chinese
Indonesians. However, the term is the easiest word to use to denote
Chinese Indonesians among the general population. There is an
on-going campaign to change the term to “Tionghoa” in public documents
3
Refer to Kato (1990) for the terms.
4
The number of victims varies depending on the source. According
to Republika (June 5, 1998), the Social Institute of
Jakarta counted over 1000 and the National Commission of Human
Rights counted 1188 victims. Suara Karya (June 10, 1998)
reported 1217. In this paper, I use the number cited by Kano (2001:33).
5
In 1991, President Habibie instructed all government bodies to
abolish discrimination against Chinese Indonesians. In 2000, President
Wahid repealed Presidential Order No. 14 of 1967, which had prohibited
the practice of Chinese culture, tradition, and religious activities
and the public display of Chinese symbols. Moreover, in 2002,
President Megawati, through Presidential Decision No. 19, made
celebration of the Chinese New Year a national holiday starting
from the year 2003.
6
The obligatory possession of a certificate of nationality by Chinese
Indonesians (Surat Bukti Kewarganegaraan Republik Indonesia: SBKRI)
was abolished by this law.
7
By Presidential Instruction No. 37 of 1967 on Main Government
Policies on the Coordination Body for Chinese Matters (Instruksi
Presidium Kabinet No. 37/U/IN/6/1967 Tentang Kebijaksanaan Pokok
Penyelesaian Masalah Cina).
8
Although Tan (2004: 33-39) treated these groups separately (PSMTI
as a mutual aid group, INTI as a pressure group), both were considered
by Chinese Indonesians to be the same kind of group.
9 On
the night of September 30-October 1, 1965, Lieutenant-colonel
Untuns was involved in the abduction and murder of Chief of Staff
Yani and six generals. After this incident, Suharto made a sweeping
operation against communist parties in Indonesia. Through “the
order of March 13” (1966), Suharto took substantial powers from
Sukarno, became acting president by 1967, and eventually assumed
the presidency in March 1968.
10
It is also possible that the idea came from similar miniature
parks opened around the same time in Thailand and the Philippines.
According to Anderson (1973), Tien Suharto visited Bangkok in
March 1970, saw the miniature park Timland, and pointed out the
possibility of a Presidential first ladies network acting in the
background. In June 1970, a similar miniature park, Nayong Pilipino,
opened. According to Pemberton (1994), Philippine First Lady Imelda
Marcos was present for the opening of Taman Mini on April 20,
1975. Thus the possibility of a first ladies’ network in Southeast
Asia that pushed for these cultural projects was not far-fetched.
11
In 2002, East Timor became an independent nation. At present,
only the signboard that says “museum” was replaced and the East
Timor pavilion is left at the site. However, maintenance work
has not been done, and when I visited the site in September 2006,
it was in a state of disrepair.
12 Statement
by PSMTI publicist, 13 and 15 March 2006.
13 Based
on a series of articles from The Jakarta Post and. Kompas.
The Jakarta Post: “Candra Naya Escapes Wrecker’s Ball,” January
29, 2000, “Candra Naya: A Heritage Already Forgotten?,” April
23, 2003, “Candra Naya Relocation Rejected,” April 25, 2003, “Sutiyoso
Advised to Protect Candra Naya Building,” May 13, 2003, “Candra
Naya Relocation is Legal Violation,” May 24, 2003, “Candra Naya
Test of Commitment
to Preservation,” May 29, 2003, “Council Supports Candra Naya,”
June 02, 2003, Kompas: “Dinas Museum: Candra Naya Tak
Boleh Dibongkar,” Mei 12, 2003, “Soal Candra Naya, Pemprov DKI
Berpegang pada Peraturan,” Mei 22, 2003, “DPRD: Gedung Candra
Naya Jangan Dibongkar,” Mei 29, 2003, “Marco Kusumawijaya. Pemeliharaan
Candra Naya Tak Perlu Ditawartawarkan,” Juni 19, 2003.
14
Ali Sadikin, as governor of Jakarta from 1966 until 1977, not
only contributed to the building of Taman Mini but also to the
urbanization of modern Jakarta.
15 Taman
Mini publicist, 17 March 2006.
16
Mr. Z, a professor at Tarmanegara
University who is deeply involved with the preservation efforts
at Candra Naya, 18 July 2006.
17 Metro
News, July 13, 2006.
18 “Proyek
Taman Mini Budaya Tionghoa Kesulitan Dana,” Kompas, June
26, 2006; “Chinese in Taman Mini,” The Jakarta Post,
April 19, 2007. Financial difficulties are also reported in these
articles.
19 This
was pointed out by a few Chinese Indonesian intellectuals I interviewed
in Jakarta.
20 August 2003,
from the Chinese Indonesian Cultural Park office representative
in Taman Mini.
21 For example,
the Chinatown shopping arcade in Kota Wisata – the suburban Jakarta
housing complex with streets named for "Rome" and "San
Francisco" – contains an entrance gate named "Forbidden
City" (even though the architecture does not actually represent
its style). This may suggest that "Forbidden City" is
accepted as representative of Chinese architecture.
22 Kompas,
“Soal Candra Naya, Pemprov DKI Berpegang pada Peraturan,” Mei
22, 2003.
23 The
Jakarta Post, “Why is Candra Naya a National Legacy?” April
23, 2003.
24 The
Jakarta Post, “Candra Naya, Test of Commitment to Preservation,”
May 29, 2003.
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